Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Milan shows colorful, firm spring man

By Marie-Louise Gumuchian
MILAN (Reuters) - From soft suits to sporty leisure wear, designers at Milan's fashion week sought more to reassure rather than provoke with easy, familiar styles and vibrant colors for men next spring.
The trend at the spring/summer 2010 menswear shows -- which ended on Tuesday -- was for a mix of tailoring and dressed down, with roomy bags and sportswear shoes evoking a travel theme.
A neat and firm silhouette was evident -- shoulders were defined, while waists and trousers were slim at Gianfranco Ferre and Roberto Cavalli. Bottega Veneta had V-shape trousers -- full on top and narrow below -- with crisp shirts and jackets.
Trousers, usually slim, were to the ankle.
As the warm season brings out more skin, several top names made sure to show off men's bodies -- with revealing vests at Cavalli and open tops tucked into tiny tight swimming trunks at Dolce & Gabbana, also seen at Versace.
Not known as one to go with trends, Miuccia Prada cut out the color seen elsewhere and stuck to greys, black and white for an urban collection shown against a monochrome backdrop.
Prada presented knit waistcoats or armless buttoned gilets over armless collarless shifts of shirts. Tops, some in a flexible wetlook fabric, had holes. Trousers with tiny black and white checks or tweed-like narrowed at the ankle.
"I wanted it to be contemporary, wearable," she said.
The theme was also urban at Emporio Armani -- for which designer Giorgio Armani got a standing ovation from some of the crowd. Armani, looking to city connections, presented suits in cool shades of grey with a fitted cut and defined shoulders and trousers with small darts at the front and turn-ups.
"It is city smart but also comfortable," Armani said in show notes. He also turned to Asia with jackets in techno mesh and put in dabs of orange on jackets, fleeces and accessories.
For his Giorgio Armani line, he went for classicism -- suits were chequered or striped, shirts had oversized patterns.
HERE COME THE MEN IN WHITE
Armani also put out white suits with sky blue patterned tops. White was also evident at Salvatore Ferragamo and Ferre which had a "free and easy yet ever impeccable mood."
Versace and Gucci, whose mood was "resolutely optimistic," started their shows with men dressed in white or pale creams.
Versace also showed comfort with unbuttoned tunics and safari-like jackets, also seen at Ermenegildo Zegna and Ferre which had sparkly tops underneath. Continued...
Source: Reuters

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